June 2021 Vacation - Day 4 - Herring Bay

 

(Note that ongoing vacation photos will appear here as they get copied up to SmugMug.)

Today, I left Saint Michaels and sailed across the Chesapeake Bay to Herring bay and Herrington Harbor South Marina.  

The plan was to simply depart from Saint Michaels, MD and sail north on the Miles River until reaching a point where I could turn southwest.  From there it was almost a straight 15 or 16 NM run to the southern part of Herring Bay (this little "chomp" out of the western shoreline).  I had looked at the weather and realized I'd have steady wind from the south, enabling a nice day of sailing, and putting this whole leg on a nice close reach (a point of sail... a bit more exciting of a ride, without all the effort of close hauled).

A last view of Saint Michaels, MD

Here's a better capture of the weird shoaling (dark blue - less than 5 feet deep)
right out in the middle of the Miles River.

The Miles River does have some beautiful houses on its waterfront.

Lunch was leftover Mongolian Drumsticks (removed from the bone and preheated).

When first making the turn to the southwest, the western shore seems very far away.
Here it's just a thin sliver on the horizon.

Once I cleared the bottom part of Kent Island and was out in the open bay, the wind was perfect for sailing.  Of course I saw all manner of vessels out and about.

An interesting trimaran "Hot Chocolate".

Wind was a perfect 15 kts and I quickly got up above 6 kts.

At one point I looked to port and saw this little smudge on the horizon.  Eventually it became a ship and I could find it on the chart plotter via the AIS.  It was the MSC Dardanelles, a large container vessel and in just a bit, it loomed larger in view and the chart plotter confirmed my worst fears.  We were on a collision course (well, passing in less than 0.1 NM).  I couldn't tell if that meant I was in front or behind him but it didn't matter... sailboats don't play with the big boys.  I did a quick tack and headed away to give him space.

Once I tacked back, the chart plotter showed I'd pass 0.5 NM behind him, which was much better.  I still encountered his huge bow wave.  I have no photos because these are terrifying.  

You see this big line of a wave that goes on forever behind these vessels.  (I had this experience in NY Harbor once.)  You approach it at a 45 degree angle (or thereabouts) and you don't see until you're on top of it... it's a huge wave (maybe 5 to 6 feet hight), followed by a DEEP trough and another large wave.  You sail up the big wave, plunge down the trough and your bow pierces the next wave with a thunderous SPLASH!  No, I didn't get a photo because my hands were white-knuckled on the helm the whole time.

A few moments after the bow wave, I heard a tremendous crash... at first I thought something happened with the mainsail or boom, but they seemed OK.  I did notice that my bow line that I keep on the lifelines had washed off and I quickly went into irons so I could safely go forward and sort that out.  Everything seemed OK (I looked below, but nothing seemed amiss), so I continued onto Herring Bay.

It was a really great feeling of being in the zone as far as sailing - everything was perfect.

I captured this brief video of the experience.

This guy was clearly on autopilot and not paying attention.  He did veer off at the last minute.

The southern point of Herring Bay had some wonderful homes.

Finally, I reached Herring Bay and entered Herrington Harbor South.  They house a HUGE collection of vessels (I think it's like 600+ boats).  

As I got into Herring Bay, I tried to start the engine, and it WOULD NOT START!  Talk about a panic.  I was about to go into irons to give me some time to start a logical troubleshooting - starting at the beginning when I thought to myself... what's the simplest explanation?  That would clearly be user error and I glanced at the throttle... I must have nudged it just a tad (it wasn't quite vertical).  A quick nudge and the engine started right up (so did my heart).

I was not expecting to like Herrington Harbor... it's a sailing resort - and a huge one.  I don't really have much use for pools and beaches, etc., though I'm told it is a great sailing destination.  But it is really well done and a cadre of ultra friendly dock hands (boys and girls) came out to help me tie up, and get me pumped out... the docks are all new and there was plenty of space.

The fuel/pumpout dock was the 4th dock.  After pumping out, I had to tie up along the long side of B-Dock for the night.  So I just said... "is it OK if I just back around that large catamaran (tied to the end of C-Dock).  The senior dockhand (still just a kid) sort of raised an eyebrow and said sure if you can.  And then...

I just did it...

I put the boat in reverse... pretty high in reverse and just drove it around the expensive catamaran and into my position.  I noticed that I just drove it... I didn't really think... I just did it (surprising myself).  I think I also surprised the catamaran owner who came out to watch, and I think I surprised the dockhands who were doing a leisurely stroll to B-dock and suddenly started to run to help me tie up when they realized I was already there.

I guess I'm beginning to get the hang of this.

After finally relaxing and going below, I found the source of the crash earlier.  ALL the contents of my tool locker in the aft port cabin had emptied out onto the floor.  This despite the latch was clearly latched.  That's when I noticed this little detail.  Can you spot the problem?

What's not right about this photo?

Of course, the latch is installed (from the factory) UPSIDE DOWN!  Why it took me a year to notice this, I'll never understand.  I've been pushing the button on the front of the latch to open and close this all the time.  I suppose there was enough resistance in the hinge to keep it closed.

Anyway, having tied up, I took a bit of a rest and then filled the water tanks.  I'm now no longer full of sh!t (Vicky might disagree) but I am full of water.

I had plans to skip the restaurant.  The dock-hands mentioned this new Ketch-22 and spoke about how some guy took it over and it's a nice more upscale place.  I have to be honest... their marketing sucks.  All their collateral made it sound like another waterfront restaurant taking advantage of the view and serving mediocre food.

I was wrong.  I've heard about their deviled eggs... you can see below I had to try one before taking the photo.  

I told the waitress I wanted something lighter after the big breakfast this morning.  She suggested the tomato salad (fresh local tomatoes, feta, balsamic vinegar).  THAT was delightful.  

I also topped it with a bit of salmon and I expected the typical dried overcooked salmon that usually tops salads.  I was REALLY wrong about that.  This was easily one of the TOP FIVE salmon experiences I have had.  Ever!  It was a thick cut, perfectly done, and had a heavier oily feel... more like a king salmon than the usual salad topper.

What a piece of salmon!
(Great tomatoes too)

On the way out of the restaurant, I saw this handsome vessel!

Finally, after dinner and writing this blog post, I had some wine in the cockpit while watching the sunset right in front of Seas The Day.

Summary of Herring Bay Costs:

Herrington Harbor South Marina - $137
Tips for dock boys and girls - $20
Ketch 22 - $52

Total:  $209

Plan for Tomorrow:

Sail to Annapolis!!  The recommendation was to pick up a mooring ball, but with the heat wave, I want a marina so I can plug in and use AC without listening to the geneset.  It should take about 3 hours, but I hope to have another good day sailing and may even spend some time sailing around below the bridge.